Dr. Konstantin Frank “Hilda” Chardonnay 2014: $35 Very Good+

The Dr. Konstantin Frank “Hilda” Chardonnay (Finger Lakes, NY) 2014 $35 [Very Good+] may be the most interesting Finger Lakes Chardonnay I have ever tasted.  Notably oaky, with enough fruit to match, the “Hilda” has fairly high acidity and the spicy notes characteristic of shalestone soils — distinctly different from Chardonnay grown in limestone soils.  It will be fascinating to see how this wine ages, and one suspects it might reach the “excellent” mark after some time in the cellar.

Medium lemon in color, the “Hilda” has big sappy aromas of butter, wax, charcoal/smoke, peach, apple, and hints of mineral and mint.  Medium bodied, dry, with high acidity and a restrained mouth feel, balance is very good.  Substantial tart and buttery flavors of apple, peach, and preserved lemon have equally strong contributions of toast, charcoal and spice.  The finish is balanced, tart, restrained, spicy, with very good length.  Flavors of peach, cloves and smoked meat linger.  March 2017


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© Douglas Hillstrom 2014