Zugibe Grüner Veltliner 2016: $15 Good+

The Zugibe Grüner Veltline (Finger Lakes, NY) $15 [Good+] is well made and a convincing representation of this grape variety.  It needs a bit more flavor concentration to hit the “very good” mark.

Medium to dark straw yellow in color, the aromas are initially dominated by notes of gunflint, smoke and mineral.  Scents of lemongrass, grapefruit and stone fruit emerge slowly and eventually achieve parity.  The interplay of smoke/mineral and fruit is interesting and attractive.  Medium bodied, dry, with peppery/spritz-y acidity, blance is good.  Flavors of stone fruit, lemongrass, smoke, white pepper, celery seed, and a touch of bitterness have good concentration and an appealing austerity.  The finish is even keeled with good length.  August 2017


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014