Anthony Road “Barrel Ferment” Pinot Gris 2016: $27 Good

This is not the kind of wine you might expect.  Barrel fermented wines are generally big, round, and mouth filling, with buttery spicy flavors.  Typically, “fruity” is not a descriptor for these wines.  The Anthony Road “Barrel Ferment” Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes, NY) 2016 $27 [Good] is not at all like the typical barrel fermented wine.  Fruity, with sharp green apple and citrus flavors —  and the barest suggestion of oak influence — this wine has some substance but is an oddity.

Medium straw yellow in color, sappy fruity scents of green apple, pear and citrus are accented by a bitter green note, and hints of wet wool and oak. Medium bodied, dry, with unexpectedly high acidity, balance is good.  Medium intense flavors of pear, green apple, lemon/lime, a bitter green note, and subtle oaky accents are underlined by a light saline streak.  The finish is lightly chalky, slightly bitter, with good length.  Light spiciness lingers.  January 2018


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014