Damiani Pinot Grigio 2016: $16 Good to Good+

When it comes to Pinot Gris (Grigio), I try especially hard to be objective.  Why the extra effort?  Here’s why — this grape rarely makes interesting wine in the Finger Lakes.  Occasionally, a winery will allow Pinot Gris to achieve unctuous buttery glory (e.g. the Sheldrake 2015), but more often the grapes are picked and vinified with a pre-conceived idea (to make a tutti-frutti citrus-y Pinot Grigio), rather than allowing the grapes to express themselves.  This is such a wine.

The Damiani Wine Cellars Pinot Grigio (Finger Lakes, NY) $16 [Good to Good+] is pale lemon in color.  Light to moderately intense aromas initially show white peach and kiwi, but aeration brings out more ripe pear, apple, lime and anise, with a hint of honey.  Medium bodied, off dry, with a hint of tannin and abundant acidity, balance is good.  Flavors of pear, apple and lime are touched by beeswax and a mineral note and become more tutti-frutti with air.  They have a generic appeal.  The finish is slightly ragged, with average length.  April 2017


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014