Fox Run “Silvan” Riesling 2016: $25 Good

What kind of wine is “Silvan,” anyway?  The introductory effort (2013) was very good, a strong flavorful dry Riesling.  Subsequent vintages have been weaker, and this year’s model is the least impressive yet.  To further confuse matters, this wine is noticeably sweet, even though the back label says it is bone dry.  Apparently there are fans (it is sold out at the winery), but this is a difficult wine to recommend, especially given its price tag.

The Fox Run Vineyards “Silvan” Riesling (Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, NY) $25 [Good] is pale straw in color.  The aromas are marked by pronounced top notes of mineral acidity, with elusive light aromas of lemon/lime, nectarine, and hints of spice and nuts below.  Light to medium bodied, medium dry, with a hint of tannin and a soft mouth feel, balance is OK.  Flavors of lemon/lime, nectarine and hints of spice are low intensity and lack conviction.  The finish is slightly tannic, a touch bitter, and short.  October 2017


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© Douglas Hillstrom 2014