Kemmeter SanSan “Medium Dry" Riesling 2016: $35 Very Good

Kemmeter produced two versions of its SanSan Riesling in 2016.  One bottle is very sweet, while this one is medium dry to medium sweet.  The Kemmeter Wines SanSan Riesling (Medium Dry, Sheldrake Point Vineyard, Finger Lakes, NY) $35 [Very Good] is a soft, nicely balanced Riesling with fairly rich flavors.  It’s a bit hard to imagine a proper use for this wine.  Rather soft and near sweet, it is not a beguiling sipper.  Yet, it will not be easy to match with food.  Johannes Reinhardt of Kemmber urges at least a year of cellaring, and perhaps he is correct.  It did improve overnight in the fridge.

Medium straw in color, the solid aromas are marked by stone fruit, apple, citrus, smoky mineral and an unusual (for Riesling) herbal note.  Medium bodied, medium dry to medium sweet, with low to average acidity for Riesling, this wine has a somewhat chunky mouth feel.  Yet, balance is very good.  Flavors of stone fruit, green apple, mango and citrus are accented by low-key smoky mineral and herbal notes.  Intensity is very good. The finish is balanced with a vaguely herbal character, and good to very good length.  July 2017


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014