Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 2015: $18.50 Good to Good+

So many recent releases from Hermann J. Wiemer have been disappointing.  There was a 2014 “Dry” Gewürztraminer that was sweet, a flat and diffuse 2015 Grüner Veltliner, and now this wine, the weakest Dry Riesling from Wiemer in memory.  Wiemer has always had a great reputation for quality (and very high prices), but its wines have become increasingly soft and flat, without vivacity, as if ripeness were the only criterion for a successful wine.  None of the white wines I’ve tasted lately stand a chance with food.  Are these recent releases a mere slip, soon to be forgotten, or a more permanent feature of Wiemer's winemaking?

The Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake, NY) $18.50 [Good to Good+] is a lackadaisical wine, quite soft, with very little ability to pair with food.  This wine deteriorated significantly after a night in the fridge.

Medium to dark lemon yellow, sweet & ripe aromas of fruit cocktail, pear, honey and a buttery/waxy note are rather heavy, without spark.  There is an acidic chem lab note that sticks out too.  Soft and sprawling, medium dry, with low acidity, balance is good on day one but deteriorates markedly after an evening in the fridge.  Flavors of pear, fruit cocktail, honey, and earthy loam have an easy-going appeal, and would be called “hedonistic” if they were more concentrated — but they have only modest intensity.  The finish is soft and a bit awkward (much more so on day two), with a lack of acidity and an “off” metallic note.  This is the weakest Wiemer Dry Riesling in my memory.  September 2016


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© Douglas Hillstrom 2014