Kemmeter SanSan “Late Harvest” Riesling 2016: $39 Good+ to Very Good

Kemmeter made two Rieslings with identical front labels in 2016.  The only way to identify one from the other is the sweetness scale on the back label.  This bottle is from Sheldrake Point vineyards and is very sweet.

I drank the Kemmeter Wines SanSan Riesling (Late Harvest, Sheldrake Point Vineyards, Finger Lakes, NY) 2016 $39 [Good+ to Very Good] over several days, giving the wine a chance to show its stuff.  Very sweet wines like this often need time and air.  While this is certainly a well made wine, it lacks concentration and (especially) intrigue.  Perhaps it will muster more force and character with cellaring, but at the moment this is a very expensive bottle, given its quality.  It is a sipper, not a food wine.

Medium straw in color, the aromas are modestly intense and diffuse, with scents of green apple, peach, citrus, mineral and a hint of wax.  Light bodied, soft, very sweet, with just enough tangy acidity to hold the wine together, balace is very good.  Flavors of green apple, peach, apricot, citrus, honey and chalky mineral are pure and well focused but not especially intense or intriguing, making sippability problematic.  The finish is lightly lip smacking with good length.  July 2017


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014